Yap Seow Choong

Yap loves design, travel and everything beautiful in life. He writes for various media about travel and design and has published works, including Wander Bhutan and Myanmar Odyssey. Formerly publisher of Lonely Planet (China Office), Yap is now Chief Content Officer of Youpu Apps, a Beijing based travel app company.


Shanghai style

05 2015 | Issue 5

When I first arrived in Shanghai about a decade ago, locals didn’t talk much about design. In fact, this city that was once heralded as one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Asia was setting trends as early as the 1930s. The Huamei Building was ahead of its time, and Laszlo Hudec designed many of the city’s memorable, modernist structures. I.M. Pei was inspired to become an architect thanks to the design of Shanghai’s buildings. And Eileen Chang, wasn’t she a clothing designer? She often sketched her own drafts, and then found the right materials for a tailor to make all those outfits that only Chang could carry with such style and grace.


After more than half a century of near-silence, Shanghai is waking up and dusting itself off. But with an illustrious past like that, Shanghai quickly returned to its former glory as a bustling international city. Design-lovers will bound to be satisfied in Shanghai. When I went back there for a visit in March, friends suggested I go to the Long Museum on the West Bund for a look. The museum is situated in a great location, in Binjiang Park in Xuhui district. I used to go running there frequently because of its beautiful environment and because it is so difficult to find quiet spaces in Shanghai.


The Long Museum was founded by the controversial and wealthy Chinese collector-couple Liu Yiqian and Wang Wei. The museum is filled with their collections amassed over the years, including some of the world’s most expensive contemporary Chinese pieces. The building was designed by one of the hottest firms in China right now, Atelier Deshaus. The architects retained a 100 metre long structure that was used to transport coal in the old days, and use a lot of bare concrete in their design of the museum, in a nod to the heritage of the place. Nearby is the Yuz Museum, founded by Budi Tek, an Indonesian tycoon. The light and transparent structure is filled with his collections from around the world. Design buffs will recognise the architect of the museum as Sou Fujimoto.


Thanks to the completion of the Kerry Centre, the area in Jingan District near Eileen Chang’s old home has become a popular hangout spot in Shanghai. Calypso restaurant in the Shangri-La Hotel offers Mediterranean cuisine, but it is the restaurant’s decor that is more memorable. The wooden interior feels Asian or southern Chinese, making heavy use of bamboo for the pillars and other intricate decorations. The exterior walls and roof are built from glass, such that the structure feels transparent and light. On nice days, all the windows and roof can be opened, blurring the line between the outside and inside. At night when the lights are on, the structure feels like a luminescent jewellery box. The architect is last year’s Pritzker Architecture Prize winner Shigeru Ban.


Apart from world-famous architects, there is also a burgeoning scene of local architects in Shanghai. Stylish and consumerist Shanghai people are a natural source of inspiration and nutrients for architects. I like the design of Urban Tribe, which is simple yet elegant. The owner is a friend I have known for a long time in Shanghai, who scours the world for materials and inspiration, creating clothes that have a subtle Asian flavour. Another successful fashion brand is Wang Yiyang’s Zuczug, which has stores in the malls of Shanghai and Beijing. His creations focus on cutting, and strive to be understated but assertive at once. These two Shanghai designers’ creations are never exaggerated and are extremely well-made, a rare thing in China today.