Sri Lanka has an amazing coastline in the west. I took a slow train going all the way from Colombo to the south along the coast. The train was slow. It gave me comfort, as I knew it would reach my destination in the end. The train proceeded along the rail, with its rhythm unchanged as the passengers entered and exited the train at each station. The train had been running at a steady speed, allowing passengers to see the sceneries that it passed through. If you happen to see school kids who have just finished school for the day, you will be greeted by their smile when they are waving at you and shouting hello. When you are welcomed by strangers during a solo trip, you would feel that you are not alone anymore.

Bentota, located 65km away from Colombo in the south, is a popular tourist destination at the coastal area. After getting off the train, I hopped on a Tuk Tuk car and asked the driver to take me to the Lunuganga Estate, which is a few kilometres away from the station. The car left the busy coastal area and moved further into the inland. Green paddy fields started to emerge in my sight. A few egrets were straying on the fields, trying to find some food.

After driving for three kilometres on a narrow asphalt road, our car then started to run on an even narrower gravel road. The bumpy ride lasted for around 500 metres and came to a stop at an iron gate. Behind the gate, there was a big rubber tree in the distance. The tree stood there proudly, as sunlight shot through its leaves, projecting contrasts of shadow and light. A small metal doorbell was attached to the iron gate. I could imagine a few decades ago the owner of the mansion would come to this mansion for vacation. He would stop his car at the gate and ring the bell. Then his servants would appear in a hurry and open the door for their master, welcoming him.

The Lunuganga Estate is massive. Venues for resting, meditation and dining were designed in every corner of the estate where there are beautiful views so as to let the master enjoy the sceneries. Bells were also set up in these venues. They can produce different sounds so that the servants would know where their master wants them to go.

Lunuganga Estate 

Geoffrey Bawa bought this estate in 1947. It used to be a deserted rubber plantation. After purchasing this piece of land, the architect started to renovate and experiment on it. The renovation lasted until 1998 when Bawa had a stroke. Bawa spent all his energy and money on this estate, making Lunuganga one of the most important works of Bawa.

In the 1960s, Geoffrey Bawa was already an emerging architect in Asia. Leading international resort brand Aman Resort’s exclusive architect from Australia, Kerry Hill, is highly praised by the industry, who is also under the great influence of Bawa. Before infinity pool and recycling material designs became popular, Bawa had already explored such designs and was very good at them.

Bawa is also a perfect fusion of the east and the west. Such characteristics are what make Asian architects unique. Born in Sri Lanka under British rule, Bawa had been receiving British education since he was a kid. After finishing a law degree in the UK, he returned to Sri Lanka and worked as a lawyer for several years. It wasn’t until he reached mid-life that he embarked on the path of an architect. The clash of different ideas and cultures eventually served Bawa as his inspiration source. Drawing from my years of interviewing experience, a good creator cannot just focus on a specific area. Instead, a good creator will know something about everything. If a creator doesn’t know much about history, geography or culture, we cannot really expect him or her to produce an outstanding design.

Bawa had been single for all his life and therefore there wasn’t any offspring that could claim his heritage. After Bawa passed away, his friends set up a foundation to continue the legacy he left behind. The Lunuganga Estate is now open to visitors and at the same time is also a boutique hotel that offers several rooms in the mansion.

If you love nature, then you need to respect it and learn from it. An architect’s life experience and career path are connected to nature. In the estate, it’s very easy for you to come across some wild trees that look like massive bonsai. Some of them are placed in the centre of the house, obstructing people’s view. Some are growing wild on the stairs of a downhill, blocking people’s way. The designer didn’t choose to remove them. Instead, he integrated them into the design. If these plants were already there in the estate, then there must be some reasons for it. This seemingly random decision actually requires more wisdom and skills.